Day One: I Forgot How Far Tucson Is.
I hugged my wife, kissed the cats, and headed east. It was just Isabel, Douglas Adams, and me. Icaught Interstate 10 in Redlands and followed it east to deep in heart of Texas. I stopped at a restarea near Yucaipa and continued east. The second rest area was closed, but I stopped at Wiley'sWell Rest Area. I crossed into Arizona, stopped at Bouse Rest Area, took a 5 minute nap at BurntWell rest area, and got gas at Tonopah. Traffic was bad in Phoenix and I realized I that I shouldhave taken the bypass. A little south of Phoenix in Pinal County, I stopped at a rest area andnoted a plaque on Gadsden Purchase where the United States bought territory from Mexicoallowing routes between east and west that went around the Rocky Mountains, which end justnorth of here. I finished The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy and started Tom Sawyer.
Many years earlier, we visited San Xavier del Bac Mission, founded in1692, and toured theinterior. Then, one of the bell towers had been recently restored and the other tower was wellaged. Today the Mission had been closed an hour, but I was able to photograph the towers, bothrestored.
Then Map Quest took me the long way around to a hotel next to the highway off-ramp six milesahead. I settled in for the evening.
Day Two, Three Missions
I slept well, awoke a little late, and scrambled to get on my way. I got off an hour late and rightoff hit traffic going through Tucson.
I saw a sign for Colossal Cave, something I hope to see some day and The Thing, maybe if I havetime next time. I made a quick stop at Texas Canyon Rest Area and read the marker for CouncilRocks, a peace treaty between General O. O. Howard and Cochise, Chief of the ChiricahuaApache.
I stopped at San Simon Rest Area. Five minutes later I was in New Mexico. The asphalt wasnoticeably rougher. Signs along the road said, "If dust storm, Pull off roadway, Foot off breaks, Staybuckled." I finished Tom Sawyer and started the Adventures of Huckleberry Finn. I got gas inLordsburg, crossed the Continental Divide and stopped at Scenic View Rest Area overlookingLas Cruces. A few minutes later, I entered Texas, hit heavy traffic in El Paso, and finally arrivedat my first stop.
There are three Missions in or just south of El Paso, the northern most, and first established ofthe three, is Misión de Corpus Christi de Ysleta del Sur, established in 1682, one of threeMissions that I've seen that claim to be the first Mission in Texas. I photographed this missionabout half an hour and moved to the second, Nuestra Señora de la Concepción del Socorro,founded 1682. This was the only one of the three for which I did not see the interior. The finalstop was San Elizario Presidio Chapel, 1788. I photographed this chapel also. I had been wantingto see these three for a long time.
It was only about 15 minutes to my hotel where I settled in for the night.
Day Three: A Mission Marker, a Fort, and Big Bend
I slept well, watched the sunrise from my room as I got ready, ate, packed, and checked out.
I got off at 7:20 am heading south on I-10. I received a text from Verizon welcoming me toMexico and telling me about roaming charges. I was close to the border, but still in the U. S. I setthe phone to Airplane mode for the next half hour. I got gas in Sierra Blanca and continued southto Van Horn where I exited I-10. I turned onto US-90 and continued south for a long hour. In thiswide open country, the 75 MPH speed limit seemed slow. I was thoughtful driving throughValentine, composed mostly of crumbling old buildings. At Marfa, I was about to turn right ontoUS-67 when I glanced left and saw a beautiful courthouse a few blocks north. I had to get aphotograph before turning around and heading south on US-67.
At Presidio, I turned west and drove about ten miles on 170 and easily found my objective, theapproximate site of Mission San Francisco de los Julimes, 1682. There is a marker in the side ofthe road and about 200 feet beyond is Ochoa Cemetery, a small site only a few dozen feet square.I took a few photographs and headed back to town.
It took only five minutes to reach my next stop. I was hoping to see the marker for Mission delApostol Santiago, 1683-1684, next to Fort Leaton State Historic Park. Unfortunately, I was toldthe marker had been removed because no one was sure where the Mission had actually been.
This is reported to be one of nine Missions in the area, where are the rest? I toured the fort for ahour and proceeded, a little disappointed.
I followed Highway 170 as it wove in and out of Big Bend Ranch State Park, stopping frequentlyto photograph scenery. Several times I was able to photograph the Rio Grande, got within 50 feetof the border running down the center of the river, and one stop was a film set from Streets ofLaredo, my guess it was a cantina set. I stopped at Barton Warnock Visitor Center with exhibitson the park.
I entered Big Bend National Park and turned down Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. I stopped manytimes to photograph the scenery. I stoppled at Castolon Visitor Center and at Desert MountainOverlook. Finally I reached the end of the road and the rest of the loop was a dirt road that Ididn't think my car would like, so I turned around and returned the way I came. The nextmorning, as I drove past the other end of the road that I didn't take, I noticed a sign saying "Fourwheel drive only."
Back in Terlingua, I tried to get gas but there was a long line, then tried to find my lodging, but Icouldn't. In desperation I asked directions at another lodging. The man said "You're there, theychanged the name." Thanks. I checked in, got gas, by now there was no line, and found my room.It was an old fashion motel and I parked just feet from the door to my room which had a funInterior Design. I Settled in for a well deserved sleep.
I had driven 330 miles since leaving I-10.
Day Four: Landscape and Markers
I left about 7:30 and entered the National Park again. It was still dark and no one was at theentrance station. I stopped a few times to take photographs in the early morning light. I made aside trip to Chisos Basin, which was a scenic drive, but the Visitor Center wasn't open yet. It isthe caldera of a long dead volcano with high walls surrounding. The return drive was also scenic.
Next I continued on to Panther Junction, about the center of the park, where the Visitor Centerwas open. I looked around a little and continued on to Rio Grande Village. It was another twentymile scenic route and I stopped several times. A deer ran across the road. The distant mountainswere layered in the haze. The landscape was much flatter than the two side roads I had alreadytaken.
At Rio Grande Village I finally was able to check in at one of the several Visitor Centers in thepark and got directions to Bosquillas Canyon Overlook. On the way I stopped at an actual bordercrossing, a small building for pedestrians crossing the border. Bosquillas Canyon Overlook is abluff overlooking the river and Mexico. It was a wide expanse and directly across were twocanoes and after a while, a man on a horse with two dogs. A town sat on a hill on the otherside of the river. I returned the way I had come.
One last stop at Panther Junction and I was heading out. I made a quick stop at Fossil DiscoveryExhibit. There is an exhibit building and a trail to a rise. It was here that many fossils ofprehistoric marine life were found. About sixteen million years ago, this spot was the shore of alarge ocean that covered most of the Midwest from what is now the Gulf of Mexico to the ArcticOcean. From here it was almost an hour more before I left the park, it is a little large. I travelednorth on Highway 385 for an hour and a half, finally rejoining Interstate 10 at Fort Stockton, 120miles east of Van Horn where I left it the day before.
I exited Interstate 10 again about 150 miles later at Sonora. I got gas and traveled south onHighway 277 about twenty miles and then joined State Highway 55 and followed it south aboutone hundred miles to Uvalde. The reason for this section of the trip was to see two Mission sites.My sightseeing was not limited to the two Missions. I stopped several times to photograph otherhistoric markers and also the Courthouse in Rock Springs, the county seat for Edwards County.In Real County, on the north side of Camp Woods, I found the ruins for Mission San Lorenzo deLa Santa Cruz, founded in 1762. There isn't much there, a few stone foundations on a site aboutan acre in size, with a few information labels. As little as there is, most of the other Missionmarkers I would see on this trip are just "Near this spot..." About fifteen minutes later, in UvaldeCounty, I stopped at four markers, two of which were for Mission Nuestra Senora de laCandelaria, founded February 1762, which had been "...located near this location..."I continuedsouth to join US-90 in Uvalde.
It took a while to follow US-90 through several smaller town leading to San Antonio. I finishedAdventures of Huckleberry Finn a few minutes before arriving at my hotel. Eventually I foundmy hotel, checked in, bought some groceries, and settled in for the night.
Day Five: Corpus Christi.
I awoke early, got ready, and waited for breakfast. About 7:30, I left for Corpus Christi.Mapquest told me to exit, turn left and right a few times and get back on I-37. I had no problemstying on I-37. A quick stop at Live Oak County Rest Area. As I traveled east, there was a largewind farm on the north side of I-37. Later, more wind turbines spread out on both sides, slowlyspinning at about 12 RPM. As I drove along the edge of the harbor, I observed a long row ofrailroad flatcars with three cars under each of dozens of wind turbine blades. Texas is no longerexclusively an oil energy state.
I arrived at the USS Lexington Museum. Lexington was a WWII aircraft carrier, now a floatingmuseum. I started on the hangar deck with many exhibits. Then to the forecastle with the giantanchor chains. Next on to the flight deck with several side trips and the Island, along with abouttwo dozen aircraft. It was quite windy and I thought of all those wind turbines I saw a few hoursearlier. Looking out, I knew there were barrier islands out there somewhere, but I couldn't seethem. I was a bit tired by the time I got back to the hangar deck, then remembered there is a lowerdecks tour which took another hour, and climbing up and down the ships ladders was furthertiring. Finally I felt that I had seen everything so I dragged myself back to the car.
While looking for the Downtown Seawall, I passed the Corpus Christi Museum of Science andHistory. I had considered visiting this museum, but didn't expect to have time. I spent about twohours here and consider it to be a very nice, well done, museum. Exhibits included rocks andminerals, fossils, artifacts from sunken ships, historic objects, art, wildlife and nature, andgalleries specifically for children.
I finally found the Downtown Seawall and the Selena Memorial Statue, a tribute to the promisingyoung singer, Selena Quintanilla, who was murdered at age 23. A few more photographs and Iwas off to North Padre Island. I considered Mustang Island State Park but chose Beach Access 3where I parked my Mustang on the beach, took lots of photographs, and dipped a finger in theGulf of Mexico. I took a few photographs and headed back to San Antonio. I stopped at Live OakCounty Rest Area, west bound.
Back in San Antonio, I settled in for the night and took care of several loose ends.
Day Six: LBJ and Missions
I arose, got ready, ate, and left for Mission San Jose. I had one stop first, Mission San FranciscoXavier de Najera, founded 1722. Many people visiting San Antonio know about the fourMissions along the river, some even know that the Alamo was a Mission, but most don't knowthat there was a sixth Mission. Today all that is available to see of this sixth Mission is a markerbeside a golf course. It was still early and the marker is under a tree, so I pulled out my tripod andphotographed the marker.
It was only five or ten minutes to Mission San Jose, founded February 23, 1720. I was forty-fiveminutes early for Mass so I photographed some of the details of the Mission buildings. TheMission is built of stone and the interior of the church was decorated. I had been here many yearsearlier.
I returned to my room and got ready for the rest of the day. On the way to Austin, I tried to findMission Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, 1756, in Landa Park near Gazebo Circle, but after threelaps through the parking lot unable to find a space to park or see a marker from the car, I gave upand moved on.
Despite closed roads that were not in the Mapquest or Maps on the phone, I found the LBJPresidential Library. For about two hours I wandered the third, fourth, and tenth floors. The fifththrough ninth floors are the archives easily seen through glass walls from the third floor. Therewas a letter from the Smothers Brothers apologizing for their harsh jokes which I foundinteresting. The tenth floor had many small exhibits and was a bit more crowed than the lowerfloors.
Next I headed about an hour northeast looking for more Mission markers. They are far off majorhighways in rural farmland. I wasn't sure that I would find them, but felt better when I drovealong the road and signs proclaimed it as El Camino Real and there were signs pointing at themarkers. I was able to find three markers: Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, 1749,Mission San Francisco Xavier de los Dolores, February 1748, and Mission San Ildefonso,extablished February 25, 1749.
Just a few hundred feet east of Apache Pass Steakhouse & Icehouse, I drove a dirt road over anarrow one-lane bridge and then for several miles because there was reportedly another locationfor Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria about a mile down, but after several miles I foundnothing and turned around.
Visiting the marker for Mission Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, 1749, took longer than I hadplanned as I was attacked by a very large, very friendly, dog who must have been lonely. She (Ithink it was a she) kept jumping on me, knocking thing out of my hands, knocking off myglasses, scratching my car, and tried to climb inside. I had to play with her about ten minutesbefore I was allowed to get back in my car.
Mission San Francisco Xavier de los Dolores, 1748, was easily found beside the road with a signpointing at it. Like the others, it was near the entrance to a ranch with open fields beyond.
Mission San Ildefonso, 1749, on a side road was also near the entrance to a ranch although a littleless open.
Somewhere around Taylor, I noticed a very large Samsung plant under construction. I've neverseen so many construction cranes in one place. I'm told that many companies are buildingdistribution centers here because of cheap land.
I wanted to stand on Congress Bridge and watch the bats flying out, but it would have been 11:00PM before I got back to San Antonio and don't like driving far at night. Later my brother, who bycoincidence was also in the area for the eclipse, told me that they did wait, but didn't see the bats.
I got gas and retired to my room
Day Seven: Eclipse
I left for the eclipse site about 6:45 heading west on I-10 about 50 miles, then US-87 north toFredericksburg and parked at Ladybird Johnson Municipal Park. For the first time in a long time,I had time to relax as I waited four hours for the eclipse. It was clear and I walked around most ofthe park, which is quite large. A small dam creates an 'L' shaped lake with the golf course on theother side.
First contact was at 12:15. The clouds moved in and out. As second contact approached, theclouds got thicker. Totality lasted four minutes and twenty-eight seconds (1:32 to 1:37) and forabout 5 seconds the Corona peaked through the clouds. Still the magic of darkness roaring in andthe light rushing back, was worth it. It feels like the first twenty minutes of sunset compressedinto five seconds. It's not total darkness, but there is a 360 degree sunset at the horizon. Thereprobably won't be another chance in my lifetime, but if modern medicine comes through, I willtry again. There wasn't much point staying for fourth contact at 2:56, so I packed up and startedback to San Antonio. As I expected, there was a traffic jam most of the fifty-miles back to myhotel.
It started to rain and I remembered reading that the Go*Rio San Antonio River Cruises don'toperate in rain, so I made a quick call to verify they were running, they were, so off I ran.
I didn't have too much trouble finding parking, but it took a few extra flights of stairs before Iwas on the correct side of the river. I finally got my ticket, got on the boat, and we departed. Thethirty minute cruse sails through the main river and all the waterways that make up River Walk.The major part of River Walk is a U off of the main river, but there is also a long channel off themiddle leading to the River Center Mall. River Walk is lined with many restaurants, bars, andshops. There are lots of stairs and bridges. After the cruise, I walked the circle and trudged backto the car.
I settled in for the evening and started getting ready to start my trip home the following morning.
Day Eight:
I arose, got ready, packed, ate, checked out, and loaded. I left at 7:15 heading north to NewBraunfels and Landa Park to try again to find Mission Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe, established1756, near Gazebo Circle. There were only two or three cars in the parking lot, so parking waseasier than last Sunday. I guessed where the marker might be and crossed a small footbridge to apath along a stream. I started to the left and within a few minutes, found the marker. It was stilldark so I set up my tripod and photographed the marker. A last restroom stop and I was finallyheading home.
It started to rain lightly as I drove away. I was a little north of my originally planed route, so I cutacross to Interstate 10 on an old farm road. The rain increased. Finally, 10:00 AM, almost threehours after leaving San Antonio, I was on Interstate 10, thirty miles west of San Antonio.
I stopped at a rest area east of Kerrville, not expecting to see another for two days. I originallyplanned to see the eclipse from Kerrville, but parking was limited, it turns out the sky was clearthere. I got gas in Junction and turneded north on US 83.
About three miles east of Menard, on Farm to Market Road 2092 (East San Saba Avenue), is themarker for Mission Santa Cruz de San Saba, founded 1757. I photographed the marker andreturned to town to find the Presidio.
Presidio San Saba, founded 1757, is on Highway US 190 about two miles west of Menard. ThePresidio is mostly the remains of a stone wall, about waist-high, enclosing a large yard, a rampartin one corner with adjacent taller walls that were once quarters. The presidio sets beside SanSaba River. Near the parking lot are rest rooms and a covered picnic area.
I continued north on US 83 and between Eden and Paint Rock I drove through another windfarm. I noticed a marker for John S. Chisum in Concho County. He was not the founder of theChisolm Trail, that was Jesse Chisolm.
I found and photographed the last Mission marker in Texas for this trip. The marker for MissionSan Clamente, a temporary two-room structure founded in 1684, is on Highway 83, ten milesnorth of Paint Rock and six and a half miles south of Ballinger, the actual location is debated. Imight note that all the roadside markers I photographed are announced a mile in advance with abrown sign and another brown sign opposite each marker with an arrow. Not like the ones inCalifornia that give no warning.
In Runners County, I noticed a marker for Maverick.
I watched wind turbines slowly turning in the fog, the ends of the blades vanishing into the fog atthe top of the rotation. It started raining again and continued until I reached my hotel. I joinedInterstate 20 for six miles and it took twenty minutes because of construction. Finally I was goingnorth on US 84 the rest of the way to Lubbock. The last forty miles before Lubbock were linedwith oil pumps and wind turbines. I finally reached by hotel about 5:30.
Day Nine:
I got ready, ate, and departed a little after 7:00 AM. I got gas in Littlefield and continued. Icrossed into New Mexico about 9:00 AM in the towns of Farwell and Texico that blendedtogether such that I almost missed the New Mexico sign.
A note on speed limits in Texas. Whoever sets speed limits understands that Texas is big. A roadthat would be 65 MPH in California, is 75 MPH in Texas. A road that would be 70 MPH inCalifornia is 75 or 80 MPH in Texas. To be honest, when the speed limit was 80 MPH, I set thecruise control to 78. But I crossed into New Mexico and dropped back to 65.
I continued west on US 60/84 for almost two hundred miles, at least I gained an hour when Icrossed back into Mountain time. It took fifteen minutes to pass a train. I passed the grave ofBilly the Kid, but expected to get in so late tonight, I didn't stop. I saw a train of wind turbineblades in De Baca County. The west is full of renewable energy. A long straight road throughnothing, 55 MPH.
I stopped at the Visitor Center for Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument where I gotstraightened out. There are three Missions in the area and I started out for the first one.
It took a half hour to reach Gran Quivira in Socorro County. A loop takes visitors to the ruins ofthe church and then around the ruins of the convento and other spaces. To the right are the ruinsof an older church. I wandered the site of this 1625 Mission for a half hour and pressed on to thenext Mission. This was the first Mission I had seen in New Mexico.
Once back in town, the next Mission was half as far on the other side. Like the first Mission,Quarai, established in 1626, is a collection of stone ruins. I wandered about a half hour and backto town.
The third Mission is three-quarters of a mile off the highway a few miles south. Like the first twoMissions, San Gregorio de Abo, 1629, is also a collection of stone ruins and like the first twosites, I wandered a half hour.
A half hour later (and a quick stop at Walking Sands Rest Area), I was standing in front of myfourth New Mexico Mission, San Miguel in Secorro, c1627. The church was quiet and locked, soI took a few photographs and moved on. I got gas before hopping into the highway and travelednorth.
After two attempts and a lot of effort to find Mission San Agustin de Islata, 1613, I was about tostart photographing the Mission when I noticed an intimidating sign saying all electronic andrecording devices would be confiscated. Now, I am disappointed with my Nikon, but I wasn'tinterested in having it taken from me by force and I felt very unwelcome, so I took a look fromoutside the gate and left as quickly as I could.
My last Mission for the day was San Felipe de Neri Church which was built in 1793 to replacethe original 1706 Mission church. The church is on the Plaza across the street from a gazebobeside which a Mariachi band was playing.
It was getting a little late by the time I found my hotel and settled in.
Day Ten:
I got ready, ate, and left. I departed at7:10 AM and headed west on Interstate 40. I stopped for gasjust before Grant and exited at Highway 53. About a half hour later I arrived at Ice Cave andVolcano. The historic Trading Post is a short distance off the highway. I paid my fee and startedthe loop up to the breach in the side of the volcano. Along the way are numbered spots which theguide interpreted. When a crack opened in the side of the volcano, lava flowed down and theloop continues beside the lava flow to the Ice Cave, which is the remnant of a lava tube. Becauseof its sheltered location, the ice never melts. I continued the loop and moved on. I crossed theContinental Divide a few minutes later.
A half hour more and I arrived in Zuni and I'm glad that I stopped at the Visitor Center. Not onlydid I get good information, but like Islata the day before, photography of cultural activities isprohibited. However, I acquired a permit and an archaeologist took me to the Mission where Iwas allowed to photograph the building, Our Lady of Guadalpe,1631, which was all I reallywanted to see. He provided a lot of interesting information. Once back in my own car, I stoppedat the museum for a few minutes where I learned more. Zuni is a Spanish name, they callthemselves pronounced ah-shee-wee. Then I continued.
I crossed into Arizona a little before 1:00. AZ-61 was bouncier than MN-53.
I stopped at the Visitor Center North at Petrified Forest National Park. My idea was to cover thenorthern half that I missed two years earlier, but the line to enter the park was too long so I optedto continue west and have more time at Grand Canyon. I got gas in Flagstaff and drove north onHighway 89. I wanted to enter the park from the east to see stops I missed last time.
I arrived at Grand Canyon a little before 5:00 PM. First I went to the Tower View for which theline was too long last time. This time they had already sold the last ticket for the day. I continuedwest stopping at most of points of interest and turnouts.
I arrived at Bright Angel Lodge and checked in. My room was close, in another building, and Itried to bring things in before it got dark. I also took a few photographs of the canyon but it wasgetting dark. I walked a small section of the Bright Angel Trail to get a preview for tomorrow since it was mymain reason for coming.
I finished unloading in the dark, ate dinner (first time in a restaurant for this trip), and unpacked.
Day Eleven:
I slept well and got ready.
The only reason for this stop was to do a hike that I've been planning for about fifteen years. Thefirst time I reserved two nights, planning to do the hike that full middle day. My wife canceledthe first night and there wasn't time. A year and a half ago, we went at Christmas and the trailwas covered with ice and was unsafe. Finally, I was walking down the Bright Angel Trail. Doing theentire trail takes several days, but I just wanted to do the first half mile. It turns out, the trail wasunder repair and only the first half mile was open. It took about half hour to walk down and anhour to walk back, taking photographs all the way. From the top you can see a short tunnel whichI reached easily. Then I saw a sign at a point in the distance, so I went that far. From there I couldsee the closed area, so I walked that far. I talked with a ranger who was coming back up and thenI turned and climbed out. It was my first time looking up at the canyon wall.
I returned to my room and rested and organized, and dealt with yet another problem with myNikon. I left for the Red Bus to see some points west.
I took the Red Bus to Powell Point and photographed more scenery. There is a monument toPowell and you can see remnants of a uranium mine. From here I walked a short distance to HopiPoint for more scenery, then waited for the next bus.
I waited a half hour for the shuttle bus as two tour busses stopped. Finally someone told me theshuttle stops at a different place. I ran and barely caught the bus as it pulled out, and spent thenext five minutes trying to catch my breath. I only got off the bus one more time after that.
The bus stops at Hermit's Rest for about ten minutes so I got off for five minutes, then road thebus back. I rested and worked on a computer class the rest of the day.
Day Twelve: Home
I had almost reached Interstate 40 by sunrise. I crossed into California about 8:30 and got gas inNeedles. Both Rest Areas were closed. I noted the highway between Newberry Springs andBarstow was lined with wild flowers. I arrived home about 1:30 PM and was swarmed by dogsand cats who missed me.
When I arrive home, I still had one and a half disks of the audiobook of Grapes of Wrath. I'llhave to wait for the next trip to see what happens to the Joad Family. As I listened to thisaudiobook, I often compared myself to the characters in the book. I was going home to Californiaand no one met me at the border to stop me. I had four good tires, a room every night, snacks,and my car went over four hundred miles on a tank of gas. The only reason why it took me fivedays to drive home from Texas was because I stopped at dozens of points of interest. I met somenice people from Oklahoma City, Fresno, Houston, and from just five miles from my home. Idrove 4,573 miles and got over 28 miles to the gallon. Well there will be an eclipse in August2044 in Montana and North Dakota, I can't wait.
